Almost every hoodie and sweatshirt on the market is made from one of two fabrics: fleece or French terry. They are often sold as if they were interchangeable, and they are not. They are built differently on the knitting machine, they behave differently in heat, they take print differently, and they age differently. Choosing the wrong one is the single most common reason a custom hoodie order feels wrong when it arrives — not the print, not the fit, the cloth.
This guide explains what each fabric actually is, how they compare across the things that matter, and which one to specify for a given job.
What they actually are
Both start life as the same thing: a knitted fabric with a smooth face and loops on the back. The difference is what happens to those loops.
French terry leaves the loops intact. Turn a French terry hoodie inside out and you see neat rows of small, uncut loops, like the inside of a towel. The fabric stays relatively thin and open, and air moves through it.
Fleece takes the same loop structure and brushes or cuts it. The loops are broken open and raised into a soft, fuzzy pile, which is why fleece is also called brushed fleece. That pile traps air, which is what makes fleece warm. It also means the inside surface is no longer a smooth loop — it is a layer of loose fibre ends.
| French terry | Fleece | |
|---|---|---|
| Inside surface | Uncut loops, visible rows | Brushed open pile, fuzzy |
| Extra process | None after knitting | Brushing / napping |
| Air flow | Passes through the loops | Trapped in the pile |
| Typical thickness | Thinner for the same weight | Bulkier for the same weight |
| Also called | Loopback, terry knit | Brushed fleece, brushed back |
One point worth clearing up: “fleece” in this context means brushed knit fleece used in sweatshirts. It is not the same as polar fleece, which is a different, much thicker pile fabric used for jackets and blankets.
Warmth, breathability and climate
This is where the choice is usually made. Fleece is warmer because the brushed pile holds a layer of still air against the body. French terry is cooler because it does not. Neither is better — they are built for different temperatures.
For Pakistan specifically this matters more than it does in colder markets. A brushed fleece hoodie is genuinely useful from roughly November to February in Lahore, and uncomfortable outside that window. French terry extends the wearable season at both ends: it works through autumn and spring, and it works indoors in air conditioning, where a fleece hoodie quickly becomes too much.
| French terry | Fleece | |
|---|---|---|
| Warmth | Light to moderate | Moderate to high |
| Breathability | Good | Limited |
| Best season | Autumn, spring, cool evenings | Winter |
| Indoors / air conditioning | Comfortable | Often too warm |
| Layering under a jacket | Works well | Bulky |
| Worn during activity | Handles it | Overheats quickly |
Weight: the same GSM means different things
A number on its own is misleading here. Because fleece is brushed, a 280 gsm fleece and a 280 gsm French terry do not feel like the same weight of garment: the fleece feels thicker and warmer, the terry feels denser and more compact. The weight figure tells you how much cloth there is, not how it is arranged. If the GSM figure itself is new to you, GSM and fabric weight explained covers how it is measured and what the bands mean.
| Weight band | French terry | Fleece |
|---|---|---|
| Around 220–250 gsm | Light hoodie, spring weight, drapes | Thin fleece, soft but not warm |
| Around 260–300 gsm | The standard mid-weight hoodie | Comfortable winter hoodie |
| Around 320–350 gsm | Heavy, structured, holds its shape | Thick winter hoodie, substantial pile |
| Above 350 gsm | Very heavy, boxy, premium streetwear feel | Heaviest end, warm and bulky |
The practical rule: if you want a heavier garment that is not necessarily hotter, go up in weight within French terry. If you want warmth, switch to fleece rather than simply adding GSM.
Printing and embroidery
The surface decides this. Both fabrics have a smooth knit face, so both print better on the outside than you might expect from a sweatshirt. But the stability underneath differs.
French terry is firmer and more stable, so it sits flatter under a screen print and under an embroidery hoop. Fleece has a brushed back, which means the fabric compresses more under pressure — prints can look slightly softer at the edges, and embroidery needs more backing to stop the stitches sinking. Neither is a problem; both just need the right setup. Our comparison of garment printing methods goes through the options in full.
| Decoration | French terry | Fleece | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Screen print | Very good | Good | Terry holds a crisper edge |
| Embroidery | Very good | Good with backing | Fleece compresses under the hoop |
| DTG | Good on cotton-rich | Fair | Pile can lift and blur fine detail |
| Heat transfer vinyl | Good | Good | Avoid very fine cut detail on fleece |
| Sublimation | Only on polyester terry | Only on polyester fleece | Needs a polyester base either way |
Wear, pilling and how they age
French terry generally ages more predictably. The loops are closed, so there are fewer loose fibre ends to work free, and after many washes a terry hoodie tends to look worn rather than fuzzy. Fleece is the opposite: the brushed pile is made of loose fibre ends, and friction gradually tangles them into pills, particularly under the arms, along the sides and anywhere a bag strap rubs. Higher-quality fleece pills more slowly, but all fleece pills eventually.
This is worth weighing when the garment has to look presentable for a long time — staff uniforms, shop-floor kit, a team hoodie that will be worn for two seasons. Terry holds its appearance longer.
| French terry | Fleece | |
|---|---|---|
| Pilling | Slow, less visible | Faster, visible in friction areas |
| Shape over time | Holds well | Softens and relaxes |
| Drying time | Faster | Slower, the pile holds water |
| Shows lint and hair | Less | More, especially in dark colours |
| Best for long-term uniform use | Yes | Less suitable |
Which one should you choose?
Work backwards from how the garment will be used, not from which fabric sounds more premium. Both are premium when chosen correctly and both are wrong when chosen badly.
| If you are making… | Choose | Why |
|---|---|---|
| A winter team hoodie | Fleece | Warmth is the point |
| A year-round brand hoodie | French terry | Wearable across more months |
| Staff or shop uniform | French terry | Keeps its appearance longer |
| A streetwear drop with heavy prints | French terry | Flatter, crisper print surface |
| Gym or training layer | French terry | Breathes during activity |
| A gift or retail piece sold on softness | Fleece | Soft hand feel sells itself |
| Layering piece under a jacket | French terry | Less bulk |
| Embroidered corporate hoodie | French terry | More stable under the hoop |
If you genuinely cannot decide, French terry is the safer default in this climate. It is wearable for more of the year, it decorates more predictably, and it looks presentable for longer. Fleece is the right answer when warmth or softness is specifically what you are selling.
Frequently asked questions
Is fleece or French terry more expensive?
Fleece involves one extra production step — brushing — so like for like it usually costs a little more than terry of the same fibre and weight. But fibre quality and weight move the price far more than the choice between the two. A good French terry will cost more than a cheap fleece.
Which one is softer?
Fleece, on the inside, immediately and obviously. French terry is smooth rather than soft against the skin. Over time that reverses in a sense: terry stays as it was, while fleece softens and then starts to pill.
Can I get French terry or fleece in cotton as well as polyester?
Yes. Both are knit structures, not fibres, so either can be made in cotton, in a cotton-poly blend, or in 100% polyester. Cotton versions breathe better and take screen print and DTG well; polyester versions dry faster and are the only option for sublimation. The hoodie fabric guide covers the fibre side of the decision.
Does fleece shrink more than French terry?
Shrinkage comes from the fibre and the finishing, not from the brushing. An untreated 100% cotton fleece and an untreated 100% cotton terry will both shrink on a hot wash. Pre-shrunk or compacted fabric shrinks much less, and polyester content reduces it further. Ask about the finish rather than assuming one structure is safer.
Why does my fleece hoodie look fuzzy and faded after a few months?
That is the pile, not the colour. Washing and friction tangle the raised fibre ends into small pills that scatter light, so the surface reads as lighter and duller even though the dye has not moved much. Washing inside out, cold, on a gentle cycle and drying low slows it down considerably.
Which is better for a hoodie that will be printed with a large front graphic?
French terry. A large print needs a flat, stable surface, and terry compresses less under the squeegee, so the edges stay cleaner and the ink sits more evenly. On fleece the same print will still look good, but slightly softer at the margins.
Can I specify which one I want on a custom order?
Yes — it should be one of the first things you decide, before weight and before colour. You can set the fabric for a custom run in the Custom Lab, and if you are unsure which suits your use case, tell us how the garment will be worn and we will recommend one rather than guess.
Next: GSM and fabric weight explained, or the full hoodie fabric guide.
See also: the best printing method for hoodies.
The knit is one decision; the garment is another: hoodie vs sweatshirt.